Articles

In common ownership with the boutique Brook Lane Hotel, Dermot and Una Brennan’s popular restaurant in the centre of Kenmare stands out for the pride that the owners and their head chef, Joe Ryan, take in showcasing the best of local produce - even in a town that has earned such a name for its food.
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Now in its 21st year, the annual Irish Food Writers’ Guild (IFWG) Food Awards recognise homegrown producers, organisations or individuals, whilst also celebrating the heroes who have devoted – and are continuing to devote – their lives to supporting and promoting Irish food
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It’s not as easy as it sounds to give visitors ‘a real taste of our Irish produce’ - but Darina has the answer to this common problem. I got a wonderful letter recently, beautifully hand-written by a woman who described herself as an octogenarian.
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Rhubarb stems burst through the soil in March, their emergence heralding the beginning of the new season. I watch over my plants and as soon as there is enough for a tart I pluck the wonderful colourful stems and make the first of many rhubarb tarts.
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Hard work and passion go hand-in-hand for most small farmers and artisan producers and no truer statement could be made about Mag and Ger Kirwan of the third generation business, Goatsbridge Trout Farm. They are hard working, passionate and always looking at how to ensure that their brand and top quality products are available to as many people as possible.
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You could say that the White Hag Irish Brewing Company hit the ground fighting in 2014. They had hoped to debut at the Fleadh Cheoil in Sligo in August 2014 with their appropriately named Fleadh Ale, but a small group of local publicans blocked the granting of a licence for a special Craft Beer Emporium at the festival. Craft beer fans nationwide were up in arms at the small-minded move, but the brewery was able to get some local pubs on board to host their ale instead.
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Although Easter is just around the corner (and early this year) March is only the beginning of spring and it can be a very chilly month, when comfort food that makes the most of the remaining autumn and winter ingredients can be very welcome.
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by Clodagh McKenna, with photography by Tara Fisher. Kyle Books, hardback, 256pp. RRP €25

Well timed to hit the book shops just before St Patrick’s Day, Clodagh’s Irish Kitchen offers a nicely balanced collection of 150 upbeat traditional recipes presented with pzazz.
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Just an hour from Dublin, the O'Flynn family’s romantically rambling country house has a wonderfully away-from-it all atmosphere - and this quietly luxurious place has always been renowned for good food. Long before ‘local and seasonal’ came into its own on a national basis, that was just the way things were done around here, with food from the farm and the walled garden taking its rightful place on the table along with the best of other Irish foods.
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Pork is one of our most traditional and most versatile foods and, while the introduction of refrigeration made a big change to attitudes as fresh pork was no longer seen as being ’just for winter’, there is something wonderfully comforting about it and many of the great pork dishes seem to have a secret ingredient that brings warmth to the chilliest of days.
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